The secret is correctly embroidered lightning consists of accurate and consistent steps. Following the general rules of the master class ,You can easily learn to sew a secret zipper into any product.
Tightened zippers are available in different lengths. But in any case, the secret lightning should be longer the cut under the fastener at least 2 cm.
To feed the secret zipper, you will need a special sewing machine foot, which is included in the mandatory set of paws to many modern sewing machines. If you do not have such a foot, it can be purchased separately in the stores for sewing: a universal foot for induction of a secret zipper or a model suitable only to your sewing machine.
Hope lightning is applied in the seam of the product with fully open sections.
How to sew a secret zipper in the product
A secret zipper open and press the spiral of the thumb with the finger so that you can see the "line line" between the braid and spiral.
Open zipper impose by the outside on the face of the product along one edge of the cut. So that the zipper is valuable exactly along the seam line, it is necessary to determine the interval between the edge of the zipper and medium slice of the fabric: the width of the cabin on the seam minus 1 cm braid width = distance to the tissue cut.
Upper end of the zipper tape clamping to allow on the seam at the desired distance from the top cutting of the skirt, trousers, the neck of the dress.
The lower end of the zipper appears for the lower end of the cut.
Sewing machine foot set over zipper so that the spiral is located under the cut of the paw on the right of the needle (1). Lightning clasp divert from the top end to the plus tag. Close zipper.
The second zipper flashes impose by the outside to the allowance of the facial side of the fabric along the other edge of the cut and pinch the upper end of the braid with one pin.
Lightning zip again open.
Sewing machine foot set over zipper so that the spiral is located under the cut of the foot to the left of the needle (2). Lightning clasp divert from the top end to the plus tag. Close zipper.
Circle detail cuts below the plus tag for a fastener, unscrewing the lower free end of the zipper on the lap on the seam and starting the seam as close as possible to the last stitches of the suturing zipping zipper.
It is convenient to use the Sewing Machine Sewing Machine Sewing Machine Fastener Fastener.
The tip of the zipper cut down and ends the flap of the fabric.
In products made of loose and fine tissues of cutting seams, which will be embroidered with hidden zipper, strengthen the thin strip of phlizelin.Photo: Burdastyle.ru; Yulia Deanova Material prepared Yulia Deanova
How to chop the secret zipper in the dress or skirt
Secret lightning is perhaps one of the easiest ways to handle a dress of dresses or skirts. The main feature of the secret lightning, as follows from the name, is that such a lightning is not visible in the seam, and applied when sewing dresses, tops, skirts, and even trousers. To properly chop the secret zipper, you need to know some secrets. Even if you are new to sewing, and you are going to twist the secret lightning for the first time, following our advice, you will be able to do it correctly and elegantly.
Second Lightning - The type of plastic lightning, the teeth of which are located on the underside of the textile tape. Thanks to such a design, lightning is practically imperceptible in the seam and can be used when sewing clothes, even from light tissues. Processing is very neat and professional. The textile tape of the secret zipper (braid) can be of different density and is made of chalk, cotton, polyester.to the table of contents ▴
Device of secret lightning
The secret lightning consists of two textile tapes, on which plastic links are fixed connected and separated when the slider movement (Fig. 1). The width of the lightning link in the closed state determines the type of lightning, for example: type 5 = 5 mm, type 8 = 8 mm, etc. Standard countersunk spiral lightning belong to the third type and, accordingly, have a width of a link 3 mm.
In fig. 1 shows the type of secret zipper from the top and bottom. Separately in circular slices show the lower edges of the zipper. Lightning length that manufacturers offer can vary from 12 cm or more.
Fig. 1. Device of the secret lightning - view from the upper and lower sides
The lightning length is selected depending on the length of the cut on the clasp product and must overlap it 2 cm (that is, to be longer than the cut). Sometimes it is difficult to find a zipper of the required length, and then a special retainer comes to the rescue, which some manufacturers are additionally installed on zipper. Moving such a lock up, you can adjust the length of the zipper under the cut length you need. Surplus zipper below the retainer can be cut off, and the cut itself to bay.
Fig. 2. Figure Lightning with Length Lengthto the table of contents ▴
How to chop the secret lightning
Tightening the secret lightning is simple enough, but for this it is necessary to have a special foot for taking advantageous lightning in its arsenal. If your sewing machine is not equipped with a similar paw, be sure to purchase it additionally, because without a special foot, it is almost impossible to stick the secret lightning without a special foot.to the table of contents ▴
What is the feature of the feet for secret lightning?
The paw platform from the bottom has 2 parallel grooves, which flex and reliably fix the zipper cloves, allowing you to pave the line as close as possible to the tooth. It is due to this that the enclosed lightning is not wines in the seam. The left and right side of the lightning are dodged, starting at the top. To fix the cloves in the heads of the paws, they must be bent, insert into the grooves and perform the line. When you turn the left and right sides of the zipper, change the position of the needle. In fig. 3 shows a foot for the Sewing machine Bernina.
Fig. 3. Foot for tart lightning paw on Bernina car
There are universal paws that are suitable for most sewing machines (Fig. 4).
Fig. 4. Universal foot for shuttering a hilt zipperto the table of contents ▴
Methods for tight zipper
Usually, the secret lightning is sewn into the middle seam on the back of the dress or skirt. In some cases, the secret lightning is in the side seam of the product, but at this arrangement of the rigid zipper in some cases can deform the side seam. In this case, the pretty lightning should be in charge, it is recommended to sample the allowances along the seam seam site. In the same way, the allowances should be strengthened along the lightning on thin tissues and with a rope.
There are two main ways to sweep the hilt zipper - in open seams and in the closed seam. Let's look at both of these methods.to the table of contents ▴
How to sew a secret zipper in open seam
One of the simple ways is to turn the lightning into open seam. Before starting work, bypass the allowance of the product with overlock or end the oblique baker by the Concongest. Make a hinting zipper line with a portno chalk on the wrong side of the product. The allowances must be 1.5 cm wide. Bend the interface of the middle seam of the product on the wrong side and plunder slightly, but do not iron (Fig. 5).
Fig. 5. Punches along the welding of zipper
Open the hidden zipper, impose it with the front side of the dresses. Covers of secret lightning should match the line of the middle of the product back (Fig. 6).
Fig. 6. Lightning to impose on allowances
Conduct the secret lightning, aligning the top of the zipper with the upper edge of the neck of the neck of the back (Fig. 7).
Fig. 7. How to do secret lightning in the product
Start the left and right side of the lightning from the top edge (Fig. 8).
Fig. 8. How to hold secret lightning in a dress
To the sewing machine, install a special foot for induction of the secret lightning (see photo 3, 4). Beat the cloves on the left braid of the hilt of the index finger, and make the cloves in the left head of the paws. Set the desired position of the needle relative to the foot. Cut the lightning close to the tooth.
Fig. 9. Putting the left side of the secret lightning
Finish the line, not reaching 2 cm to the slider (Fig. 10). The end of the line fasten and cut.
Fig. 10. Lower edge of the left lightning
Similarly, perform a line on the right side of the zipper (Fig. 11). Start both lines from above, adjust the position of the needle relative to the foot.
Fig. 11. Putting the right side of the secret lightning
Secure the end of the lines by a double knot and doinched (Fig. 12).
Fig. 12. Fixing the ends of the filament of the seam
Clean the secret lightning (Fig. 13).
Fig. 13. Close the secret zipper
It remains to firm open seam below zipper (Fig. 14).
Fig. 14. Open section below zipper must be shot
Sweep the middle seam of the dress, aligning the sections below the zipper, for a convenience, remove the lower tilt of the lightning as shown in Fig. fifteen.
Fig. 15. Smealance the seam below zipper
To the sewing machine, set the paw to turning the zipper with an open platform (Fig. 16). Still open seam plot, starting a line from below and finished in a zipper shuing. For ease of completion of the line, remove the bottom end of the hilt.
Fig. 16. Stop open seam to zipper
Introduce the batteries and go to the processing of the product neck. The type of secret lightning with the front side is shown in Fig. 17.
Fig. 17. Type of secret lightning with face
The type of secret lightning from the wrong side is shown in Fig. eighteen.
Fig. 18. Type of secret lightning from the wrong side
See also: a video lesson "How to pump a secret zipper, closed from the inside of the reps tape"to the table of contents ▴
How to enhance zipper in a closed seam
The difference between this method is that first the seams are stated to zipper, leaving an open only incision for zipper, and then insert zipper. We considered this method in detail in a video lesson dedicated to the sewing of a festive dress. Look at the fragment of the lesson in which the technology of the zipper is shown in detail into the closed seam.
An even more master classes and ideas for creativity can be found on the School School site Anastasia Korfati. In order not to miss anything important and useful, subscribe to our free lessons and make fashionable clothes with us!
Hope lightning is indispensable when you need an imperceptible to the front of the dress for dresses, skirts, bags. Correctly insert it, not deforming the product, not so simple. What you need to know to sew a secret zipper?
Features of secret lightning
Features of the secret lightning are that it is hiding in the seam of the product, and only the slider remains on the surface. In the usual, it is located on the side of the teeth, in the secret one - on the reverse side. But do not confuse, some ordinary lightning cloves are also hidden under the braid. It is possible to distinguish this: at countertile lightning in the disclosed form, the cloves are easily bent, in other species - no.
The difference between the secret zipper - the teeth are inside
How to choose a secret zipper? Pay attention to the width, view and density of the basic material. The lighter the tissue of the product, the thinner choose zipper. The length should be 2-3 cm more planned clasp length.
Shuffle lightning before work. If she is on a cotton ribbon, it is done with the ferry. The fact is that the zipper tape can stretch out or give a shrinkage and a fabric will smear in the finished product.
"Secondary" foot for induction
To induce the secret lightning, a special foot is used, which allows you to shoot it as close as possible to the toes. It does not always come with a sewing machine, but for sale in specialized stores. From the usual, the shape of the sole is distinguished: there are grooves or grooves for the lightning helix on the surface of the product.
To properly choose a leg, take with you to the store any, which is suitable for the sewing machine. Paws of different models have constructive features:
- on the "leg";
- with a removable sole;
- With screw fastening.
They can also be metal or plastic. Metal models will last longer. Plastic - less durable material. Over time, such a foot is deformed by a needle or cracks of the machine strip, and its slip is worsening. But if the foot is needed for one-time work, then the plastic product is suitable.
There are two kinds of feet for secret lightning - plastic and metal
What you need to work
To sew a zipper, you will need:
- Zipper zipper;
- Portnovo pins;
- needle with thread;
- "Secondary" foot.
Before starting work, check the tension of the upper and lower thread in the car. If it is strong, then loosen, otherwise after the zipper is appropriate.
Do not use too thick needles and threads to sweat.
Sust a lightning so as not to stretch the fabric, easy. It is necessary to smoke the seams in the zipper shuttering site using flieslinic strips. For this purpose, intended:
- FORMBRAND - Kosy Flizelin Beach with a central stitch, which is used on oblique sections or for knitwear and is glued so that the central line coincides with the seam markup;
- Contenband - Fliselin adhesive strip, carved in a straight line, which is glued with a seam mark on 1 mm.
If there is no Formamband or Contenband, the strips are cut out of the fliesline canvas: for oblique sections and knitwear in oblique, for direct - in a straight line.
Formsband - oblique beyk with central loop stitch
How to sew a secret zipper
To insert a secret zipper, perform a number of consecutive actions.
First stage - Preparation
- Measure with an inside of 1.5 cm from the slice of the fabric and to dope with a chalk line on both sides.
- Stripping Fliselin - Formamband or Contenband. If the fabric is rough and dense, you can do without fliseline.
- Note the seam on the markup.
- Sleep the cuts overlock or hands.
- Restore seam. At the same time, the seams are finished on one side, and then root into different.
The second stage is a hint
- Attach closed zipper into the center of the center, make a chalk mark on the seam allowance and tape tape symmetrically on both sides in two or three places. They will need to more accurately enter the zipper. The top of the clasp must match the top seam of the belt feeding for a skirt or neck if it is a dress.
- Pins insert on the marks across the clashes and grind the zipper with the allowances of the seams under the gears.
- Schedule the zipper on the seams, piercing only one layer of fabric.
- Remove the pins, remove the sputs, reveal the zipper.
Marking applied symmetrically on both parts
Third Stage - Pumping
- Shot a zipper by car with the help of a special foot while it is not robbed into the clasp. If there is no special foot, use the usual. Then you need to manually flex a spiral of lightning and watch the seams pass as close as possible to the spiral, but did not damage it. If there is little experience, both sides are better to take away from above to prevent skew.
- Fix zipper and make sure everything is done correctly.
- Continue lateral seams so that the bottom assembly is not visible. It should be below the end of the seam at 0.5-0.7 cm.
- Remove aims.
With the help of a special foot sewing a secret zipper
How to pump secret zipper - video
Features of the hidden zipper
Depending on the specific product, fabric, cutting and shocking sites, there are some nuances. The following variants of the zipper are described below.
The easiest option to turn the zipper in the bag or pillowcase is to the cut-out, but not stitched detail to sew zipper, then collect the product. Lightning should be longer than 5 cm. Instead of picking up, the adhesive pencil for tissues is also used.
- Marking applied on the front side of the product.
- We scatter with glue.
- We assign the slug down with a slider down, combining the spiral with the line of marking and press the hot iron.
In order not to stain the ironing surface, put the paper for detail. After that, it remains only to dangle lightning on the machine and collect the product.
Sun skirt without a seam
- The first step is to outline a place for stamping lightning.
- The fabric is neatly cut on the length of the clashes, adding 5-7 cm.
- Duplicate (sample) cuts with a suitable fliseline ribbon, overpower sections.
- We feed zipper.
- The residue is closed by seam.
If the clash dress begins below the neck or the premium, the seam before the start of the clasp connector is stepping in advance. Carefully combine the details along the waist line, especially in cutting dresses.
Important! If the fabric is uncovered by oblique or cut curved, duplicate the input of the phlizelin ribbon. The same is done with thin and knitted (pulling) fabrics.
How to sew a zipper in the side seam of a dress cutting along the waist - video
Insert the secret zipper into any product is not so difficult, if you know some tricks and secrets. Guided by the recommendations described, everyone without difficulty will do it.Hello! My name is Irina, I am 48 years old. Rate article:
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With independent sewing skirt, it is important to properly insert a zipper. The most common option is a secret snake. It looks neat and unnoticed, as it merges with the seam. If you figure out how to sew a secret lightning in a skirt, you can avoid deformation of the product or tissue tissue. For work requires certain tools, they should be prepared in advance.
Materials and tools
Before sewing a secret zipper in a skirt, all the necessary tools and materials should be prepared. Most often, a sewing machine is used to work. For the perfect result, it is better to purchase a special leg. Zipper pumping with its help is simplified and the opportunity appears to pave the seam as close as possible to the tooth, because at the "sole" of this tool there are special grooves. Without such a foot, the probability of damage to the teeth and the receipt of the curve of the seam appears.
It is best to get a metal leg, as it makes it easier to slide on the fabric and is not damaged by a needle. Plastic is short-lived, but is suitable if the work is disposable.
In addition to the special foot, such tools will be required:
- Portnovo pins;
- Thin threads under the color of the fabric;
- Thin needles;
So that the castle turned out to be inconspicuous, it is important to choose him correctly. The secret lightning is different from the usual one - she has a runner located on the other side of the teeth, so it is not visible during the fastening. At cost, they practically do not differ. In addition, in the fastened state, the secret zipper cloves can easily be bent.
When choosing a secret zipper, it is important to take into account the coloring and features of the Skirt material. So that the fittings were inconspicuous, their color must match. It is important that the runner approached the tone, as it will perform a little from the seam. It is difficult to choose a lock for a product from a delicate or pulling material. At the same time, it is necessary to try to pick it up with small cloths and on a fine basis. For skirt you can use metal and plastic zippers. The second is more recommended for tailoring of tissue tissues, natural and artificial leather.
By the length of the zipper should be 2-3 cm more than a neckline designed for it. It is better to cut off the excess part and consolidate the cloves by hand. Before entering the zipper in the skirt, it is recommended to try it. If it is on a cotton basis, it is better to sip, then after washing the finished product it does not sit down, and the fabric is not deformed.
Preparation for work
Before sewing a zipper in the skirt, you must adjust the sewing machine. If there is too strong thread tension, the fabric can shut, and the product will have ugly folds. It is recommended to use thin needles, then the seams on the skirt will not stand out.
Usually insert zippers in the side seam of the product, less often - rear. This is done at the last stage of work before the sewing of the belt in a specially unprofitable place. Some craftsmen recommend not to inspire this seam at all, it is believed that it will be easier to insert zipper.
The main thing that should be done before starting to sew zipper in the skirt - process sections. This is done with an overclock or manually. If the fabric is fooling or stretches, be sure to use the lining. This is a thin material on an adhesive basis, which is attached at the point of the locking of the castle throughout the diameter of the product on the waist. It prevents stretching and appearing from the needle. Most often, dublerin is used as a subflade, it is applied with adhesive side to the fabric, and then stroke. You can also take the Flaselin Formsline or Contenband instead of it. It is necessary to do it before processing edges overlock.
Before sewing a secret zipper in a skirt, it is important to correctly determine the place for it. For this, the product needs to be decomposed by the invalid side up, at a distance of 1.5 cm from the edge, mark the place of the seam. Then you need to overcome the fabric and slightly press it.
Next, it is necessary to apply the front side of the closed clasp. The teeth should be located at the junction of two parts. The top of the lock should not reach the edge by 0.5-1 cm. This is a place to process the upper edge or sewing belt. Then make 2-3 labels on the lightning and on the fabric. It is necessary that when the lock does not shift, and the skirt did not twist. Next, you need to neatly leather the parts of the pins across the seam and occupy. At the same time, only the fastener and the flashes are pierced.
It is better to use a contrast thread for wetting, then it will be easier to pull it easier.
Lightning Vtitch Algorithm for Different Skirt Models
Experienced craftswomen are not asked how to apply a clasp, how to shoot, how to sew a belt to the skirt. But those who just started to do needlework, it is better to use ready-made algorithms. They describe in detail how step by step act. Such instructions will help to avoid mistakes and do not spoil the product, especially since for different skirt models their descriptions and nuances. It should be noted that when the direction of the seams should go from top to bottom.
It is more difficult to entertain zipper in a skirt with a belt. You need to do it carefully, following the instructions. The workpiece of the belt is folded in half and sewn from the front side. Seam leave non-refined. Before you sew the belt completely, the fastener is inserted. It should be followed by step-by-step instructions:
- Break points on the seams, press.
- Applied to one edge part of the open fastener, notify. The teeth should coincide with the fold line, and the upper edge - with the belt border.
- Start one side, carefully flexing teeth. The line should be no further than 2-3 mm from them.
- The same to do with the second side. Before passing out the locking castle, checking it to lay smoothly.
- Pull out the backbone, secure the bottom edge of the fastener.
- Close the top of the belt, sew it.
If there is a button or hooks on top, the beginning of the fastener should be below - before the belt. If there are no, it is sewn from the upper line of the product.
Bottled in the skirt without a zipper should be invisible. All seams are hiding, and the joint of two parts should be so small so that only the slider worked fine. The teeth should not be visible, only a dog. To do this, do everything according to plan:
- Sow, in which the castle will be shoved, it is better to leave open. It is 1.5 cm from the edge of it with a chalk sovereign boundary. His wrap it on the wrong side and stroke.
- Attach one piece of the facial fastener to the odds. The cloves at the same time must accurately coincide with the fold, and the end of the fastener - with the top edge of the product.
- Carefully notify the castle to the gracious, capturing only it.
- Remove it and strain with a special foot. You need to start the seam from above.
- In the same way, set the second half, fasten the lock.
- Bend the edge of the zip in the direction and occupy the remaining seam to Niza, see. The seam should go to 1 mm left lines of fastener tipping.
After that, the top edge of the product is converted or processed by another way. The fastener must be hidden under the flashed. Otherwise, its edges can be cut off and treated with overlock.
Even those who know how to sew such a product with folds, often experience difficulties when enhancing the fastener. But if you do everything neatly and according to the rules, it will be comfortable and invisible. Instruction:
- Leave an unimpressed seam section more than 2 cm fasteners.
- Turn the allowance and smooth out.
- Attach the unfounded clasp on one side so that the cloves are close to the flavored flavor, pinch the pins, it is necessary.
- The top edge of the teeth should not reach the edge of the product for 2 cm.
- Save the lock on one side.
- Attach the second side of the fastener, it is noted and stroke. Seam must go at a distance of 2-3 mm from the teeth.
- Remove the backbone and secure the bottom edge of the fastener.
Many knitwear skirts or dense tissue are made with lining. In this case, the order of sewing clasp is the same as in previous master classes. But you need to add some more actions:
- handle edges of lining;
- attach it and notice;
- Send neatly manually secret seam, closing all the lines.
If you can sew a zipper, the product can turn, the fabric will frown or stretch. Difficulties may also be if there are no seams in the skirt. It is necessary to make a cut by 2-3 cm more than the fastener length. Then you can act on the usual algorithm, and the remaining incision to sew.
In order to properly enter both secret and conventional zippers, you need to follow the recommendations of experienced craftsmen. There are several nuances, non-compliance with which can lead to errors:
- If the skirt is knitted or a delicate material, then between the lightning and the fabric, there must be a lining - fliseline or dublerin.
- For knitted cloth it is better to use special needles with a rounded tip. It is necessary to follow that the edge does not speak for the teeth, otherwise the threads will fall into them.
- Before taking a secret zipper, you need to fix it well with pins. So that it does not move during the passion, you should make the mark with chalk.
- It is not recommended to use thick needles, traces may remain from them.
- If you need to cut off the excessive length of the snake, it is necessary to consolidate the edge of the teeth so that the slider does not scrape.
- Do not make big points on the seams. It is best that the edge of the fabric coincides with the edge of the zipper.
- If the metal fastener is sewn, you need to retreat from the edge of 5 mm. Its should be visible completely, otherwise she will be stuck.
Sewing a secret lock is needed as carefully and unnoticed. At the same time, he must move freely, do not stick and not cling to the fabric. If you follow the recommendations, everything will turn out how it is necessary.
Colleagues are asked how I was so embarrassed to sew a secret zipper that it looks really secret: as if just seam.
In general, I always try to sew a secret lightning in the rear seam, and not in the left side. Still, our side has all sorts of mountains and depressions, and back and pops are more fixed places. And even an outstanding ass sharply outstanding a sideways than back. I will show how I sew the zipper, on the example of the skirt. It is necessary to sew a lightning after all the cuttings are steel, but before connecting the rear and front half and with the unstable rear seam. We translate the line (vertical on the length of the zipper and a little bit horizontal (belt sewing lines) on the rear panels from the inside on the front side:
2. From the wrong side of the rear seam line, we glue phlizelin on the lightning length:
3. Lightning put the labels - 3 centimeters from the end of the fastened part. These are tags that we will charge:
4. Now the most important thing. I turn over our rear panels face up. We see your transferred lines. Disseminate zipper. And we begin to lay one half with a zipper by cloth to the appropriate line, often pins along the edge of the lightning pins (there are even special mini holes, if you look at the same time). Lightning from above there are such navels-limiters. If the belt is assumed on the skirt, then this navel must be stacked directly into the corner. If the belt is not, and there will be a hoist, then you need to retreat from the horizontal line down 2-3 mm (this is a stock for the inflection of the fabric). I clarify: put straight tightness teeth on line (not in front of it and not behind it). Then we rush the second half of the lightning on the second line. It should turn out like this:
5. There is a special foot for sewing the secret lightning. In the bottom of the image, it is presented under the figure 3. The essence of it is that it spins the zipper, allowing you to make a seam right under the zipar tooth. I do not use such a foot, because I am much more convenient to do it with a paw to sewing ordinary lightning (number 2). From ordinary foot (№1), it is characterized by the fact that it does not have one half, which allows you to close to the teeth:
Specialists Recommend: If you use a paw to sewing ordinary lightning (No. 2), it is necessary to unwind the secret zipper, smoothing the twist with an iron (do not worry, after the sewing it is twisted back after the pair of ottoping). But I do not do that. In the process of sewing, I'm just a little spinning zipper hand:
So, we sew one half of the zipper (I remind you that we sew from the front side) and the second one - it's still in what order. Do not forget to make the leaps at the beginning and at the end of the seam. On top of lightning, the line begins right from the start of the rag part of the zipper, from the bottom - from the labels supplied.
Buttoning zipper and scatter (or weathered) the remaining rear seam:
7. Now the most technically complex. We need to see this seam, ranging from the end of a lines fastening zipper. It is quite difficult to make sure in one line, requires experience and agility of hands. We'll have to modify the tilt of the lightning with one hand, and the second raise-lower the paw in order to accurately bring the needle to the end of the last stitch of the seam fastening zipper:
8. If necessary, we raise sections. Wallowed with inside and face:
9. If everything is done exactly, this beauty should turn out:
When I started to sew, secret zippers were my little nightmare. Then one friend showed me how she sews, and I really liked the way. Everything began to get. Share experience.
I specifically took fabric, thread and zipper of different colors to be better visible. On the product, of course, everything should be tone.
To sew zipper, you will need:
- Actually, lightning and product (I have two loskutka costume suites in me);
- Special footboard for secret lightning;
- Paw for ordinary lightning, with its help we will carry out the middle seam;
- Pins, threads, scissors, soap or marker, etc.
Cooking the product
First, we note where zippers will be located:
We rock cuts. First we combine all tags, upper and lower edges, then fix additional pins in arbitrary places. We estimate the middle seam completely, including a plot where zipper will be:
We remove the pins, weaken, but slightly, we have not yet a final WTO:
We have a zipper to the desired place and fix the pins:
The tongue carefully go out:
Take the lightning:
We remove the mark from the middle seam on the site where zipper is located, uncheck it:
We install a paw to the machine to turning the secret lightning, we have a product so that the needle gets into a special groove on the zipper (it's quite difficult to take a picture, but you will see everything in a great way):
Similarly, in the other hand. That's what we did:
Now install the paw for taking ordinary lightning. It allows you to arrange the product so that the needle gets exactly in the stitching line of zipper, and the seams turned out to be neat:
Step the middle seam. Weeping. Result:
Upper tips cut, hide under the wrapper. Since I do not have a product, but just a loskutka, I did not do this, but I think there will be no difficulty difficulties.
Lightning can be reduced to the desired length and handle the edge of the baker, the product will look more expensive and better.
I hope the post was helpful.
Put like that other readers also see the master class!
Thank you for looking at the canal! Your N. ♥.
The secret lightning differs from ordinary lightning by the fact that its slider is located on the back of the teeth, and the teeth themselves can be bent in the unbuttoned form. It is secret lightning that will allow you to make a fastener on the back of a dress or skirt as invisible and neat.
Our master class will tell in detail how to sew a secret lightning, and will also introduce you to the general rules of working with this type of fasteners.
Figure lightning: Basic installation rules
Despite the fact that hinting lightning is almost imperceptible with the front side of the product, always pick up the color of the tone of the fabric: the lightning slider will still be noticeable, and in addition, the product and from the wrong side should look like professionally.
Before installing, be sure to push the base of the zipper with the ferry or extend, and then fly away - this will avoid possible shrinkage and tissue of the product fabric.
The seam allowances, in which you will insert zipper, it is advisable to strengthen, especially if your tissue is very shuffled or carved. It is best to use a special edge on a fliesline basis.
Always Knock, Mock and Stop Lightning with the product from top to bottom.
There are two opinions on what stage you need to sew a secret zipper: in open seam or in the already mediated. We recommend not to sew the basic seam or, as a last resort, leave an unimpressed seam section of a few centimeters long before the start of the fastener.
In a set of most modern sewing machines, there is a special paw for sewing lightning. However, there is a special foot, for the sewing of a secret lightning, and if you wish, you can buy in the store of sewing accessories.
There are both metal and plastic paws on sale. Plastic paws are cheaper, on the other hand, the metallic basis is more reliable. It will not appear scratches, which can then worsen the sliding of the foot on the fabric.
Although the special foot simplifies work significantly, but with a simple paw you can achieve a good result.
So let's learn to sew a secret zipper!
On the bulk, stretching or out of oblique tissues, strengthen the edges of the phlizelin edge. Damage on overlock or zigzag. Get the whole seam of the product in which you will sew zipper.
Rentifying. Enter the zipper from above to the allowance so that the teeth coincide with the central seam. The slider must be 1 mm below the designated edge of the product.
Scaliate zipper with cloth under the tooth.
Note the zipper to the fabric in the middle of the braid, grabbing only the allowance of the product. Pull out the pin and the central seam mark until the end of the zipper. Open zipper.
Insert the paw to the zipper. Install the needle to the leftmost position. Beat the cloves and insert the needle as close to the tooth. If you have a foot specifically for secret lightning - it will turn the cloves herself.